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Part Started: 2/23/2011
Part finished: 3/15//2011
Time : 27.25 (.5 hrs on add-on's not on the plans)
Changes from plans:
  • Added extra nutplate next to one hinge on for an electrical bonding strap to go to the VS.
  • Added 2 extra nutplates to attach a Static Wick too.

Rudder Trailing Edge

posted Jun 23, 2011, 7:27 AM by Bill Thomasson

First was prosealing the trailing edge.  I did this with Brian Michael (another RV-10 builder in NW Atlanta) as he had a big can of Proseal that was going to go bad.  Proseal is only good for 3 months from date of purchase, and once opened must be used or resealed with nitrogen.
You will read a lot about deailing with Proseal.  It is messy, it has the consistancy of taffy that has melted on a 100 deg day.  It sticks and stretches to anything.  Overall with 2 of us working together it went very smooth, and was not really the ordeal that some builders make it out to be.  It was really nice to have someone else helping that new the plans, and how to rivet etc.
Brian closing out his rudder as we Prosealed both our rudders.
After the prosealing you weight the edge down.  I used a 2" angle iron (Home Depot) on the bottom and a board with lead diving weights on the top.
Some places on the edge of the rudder was held apart by too much proseal, so I then added cloths pins to add a little pressure right on the edge.
After letting the proseal dry for 2 days it was then time to rivet the trailing edge. I put every other rivet in, and covered with rivet tape.  Then celco'ed the rudder in 4 spots to the angle iron.  I followed the directions on Tim's site instead of the method that Van's recommends. I used a backrivet set, with just barely enough pressure to activate the gun, first at 90 deg to the table and rotating as the rivet went down to 90 deg to the skin, stopping when they were still above the dimple level.
After I had set all the rivets to this point, I changed to a flush riveting set, turned the gun up just a little and hit each rivet (back side) a short burst to get it level with the skin. (Van's calls for doing this with a cup rivet set, but using the flat rivet set get's the rivet a little flatter in the dimple).  I then flipped the rudder over and did the alternating rivets from the oposite side.
After completing all the rivets this is what the trailing edge looked like.  The middle rivet is the shop side, and it does not fill out the dimple completely, but is very close.
This did end up with a nice streight trailing edge.

Start to Finish on Rudder

posted Jun 23, 2011, 7:20 AM by Bill Thomasson


RV-10 Rudder

And All the Pictures


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