First was prosealing the trailing edge.  I did this with Brian Michael (another RV-10 builder in NW Atlanta) as he had a big can of Proseal that was going to go bad.  Proseal is only good for 3 months from date of purchase, and once opened must be used or resealed with nitrogen.

 

You will read a lot about deailing with Proseal.  It is messy, it has the consistancy of taffy that has melted on a 100 deg day.  It sticks and stretches to anything.  Overall with 2 of us working together it went very smooth, and was not really the ordeal that some builders make it out to be.  It was really nice to have someone else helping that new the plans, and how to rivet etc.

Brian closing out his rudder as we Prosealed both our rudders.

 

After the prosealing you weight the edge down.  I used a 2" angle iron (Home Depot) on the bottom and a board with lead diving weights on the top.

 

After letting the proseal dry for 2 days it was then time to rivet the trailing edge. I put every other rivet in, and covered with rivet tape.  Then celco'ed the rudder in 4 spots to the angle iron.  I followed the directions on Tim's site instead of the method that Van's recommends. I used a backrivet set, with just barely enough pressure to activate the gun, first at 90 deg to the table and rotating as the rivet went down to 90 deg to the skin, stopping when they were still above the dimple level.

 

And All the Pictures